Sept 11 Libya

Tragic events in Libya resulting in the death of our U.S. Ambassador Chris Stevens, Glen Doherty, Sean Smith, and Tyrone Woods.

They certainly were brave men among men for doing what diplomats do - stepping into the breach.  A breach is by definition a rift, a rupture, a schism, a break...it is the antithesis of continuity, connection, or unity.  A breach, by its very nature, is chaotic, uncertain, not harmonious and therefore is risky, perilous, even dangerous.

Much is made of the valor of soldiers who, with arms, stand in battle alongside their brethren in defense of others, or aggressively bring the battle to the enemy.  But I wonder if any see the raw courage of those who enter perilous situations without armor or weapons, without the cavalry to protect them in order to extend a hand to strangers (who may or may not receive them) in order to build genuine relationships based on trust and mutual respect.

Ambassador Stevens and many faceless others have worked with like minded people in Libya to help strengthen them, to encourage them and teach them anything we know that can help them overcome their own countrymen who would rather take this fragile nation down the road of radical Islam, anarchy and align with less favorable partners.  We learned on the original 9/11 that a few people from a small country with few resources and little education can hurt us dramatically.  Who ever thought the Taliban in Afghanistan harboring a small group of Al Qaeda devotees would be so relevant to their own lives? 

Our own national security is dependent upon our diplomats who find ways to weave together alliances and bring stability to strife-torn regions in ways that all our military hardware and personnel cannot do.  Our diplomatic community accomplishes great things because they are willing to do what few others are - step into the breach.

Much has been said about the lack of security for the Ambassador and the people working for us.  I'm sure much more will be said. But I wish more people understood that we accept higher risks to perform our duties out in the field every day than most people do in their own lives.  We do it because we believe we can make a difference, for love of country and for the love of mankind.  We know we cannot make the world a place of utopia, but we're willing to affect change where we have the opportunity. America should be proud of their diplomatic corp.

I'm sorry to say that most Americans have no clue what their diplomatic corp does for them.  I am doubtful they appreciate us, or hold us in esteem even remotely similar to military forces.  But I know that they were heroes, just like many others who work everyday in difficult, even dangerous circumstances that you will never know.

Riding Gators

Occasionally the night is cool and calm, and we take advantage by sitting outside and chatting away the time.  On one such night not too long ago I and several of the ladies did just that.  It was almost midnight when one of them asked me if I want to take the gator for a ride..."uh, what is a gator?"  She said it's lots of fun, you wanna drive it?  Apparently she had been driving this little gem around, instead of a real vehicle.

Here is picture of what a brand new one looks like.  But ours was anything but "new."  This one was covered in dirt, ripped seats...and does NOT have working headlights.  This is important because our compound does not have lights either.

It was only after we were off on our midnight adventure that I realized she was quite tipsy, which only added to the giggle factor.  Our compound is also very much under construction and every single day new trenches are opened up, so as we went at a top speed of 12 miles an hour through the dark she would occasionally yell, "is that a trench!?!" to which I would answer "Nah! that's just a ditch!"  Which we would promptly drive right through.

It doesn't take long to hit a wall (a barrier between us and the "outside" world) so we had to change directions several times.  Only after I was sure she was securely holding on, did I swing the wheel and slide us sideways in the loose gravel to make a 180...yes, we caused quite a stir on the compound so late at night, giggling, laughing and flying by men with guns....who wondered who in the *&#@ was making all the racket (we did wave as we went by, and some of them waved back!).

It was over too soon, but an enjoyable little jaunt all the same.  The next day they put in generator powered street lights...seems someone fell into a trench and got hurt, lol.  Wasn't us!

Killing a Little Time

Well, the move is complete and we are trying to settle into our new surroundings.  Pretty much everything is different, not better or worse, just different.  Making the adjustment to how everything functions differently in trying to do your job can be frustrating.  I know I have been utterly frustrated and at times overwhelmed at the massive amount of learning I must do to simply accomplish the simplest tasks...but I see that as a pattern in my job.

I have gotten quite comfortable in my CHU with a nice large rug, several of my things from home and reminders of friends and loved ones.  Today has been a day of refusing to go to the office, and simply puttering around, doing laundry and watching TV.

It can be very monotonous when you live and work with the same dozen people...you find your conversation options are kind of narrow.  I've found myself making up stuff when someone asks me what I have done or will do.  I tell them I mowed the yard today, took the dog for a walk and went to the ice cream store; or that I'm off to shop at Target or Walgreen's.  We've all talked about naming things and streets here in this barren construction zone.  I have called our street Pineview Terrace, because there aren't any pines, not much of a view and certainly no terraces, LOL.

You might think I'd be bored, but I'm not.  You'd be surprised how much time a woman can kill pampering her feet and hands, moisturizing hair and skin.  I'm just thankful for having a few hours when it doesn't feel like the world is going to come to an end if you don't do this one more thing.  Hurray for killing time!

Kirkooky's (re)Unite!

Yes, we are called Kir-Kooky's by our colleagues in Baghdad because those who work here truly believe their work has a direct impact on the ability of the different competing groups to come together in a common bond...yeah, not so much the opinion of those at the Embassy in Downtown Baghdad.  They think they work in the primary seat of power.  I really don't know who's work is most impactful, but I do appreciate the dedication to the cause of my Kirkuk colleagues.  They have earned my respect and I'm proud to be here with them.

There are less than 20 of us, only 3 of us are women.  Every single person adds something unique to the group dynamic and when one or two are absent there is a gap, having one half of our group away from us for a week seemed like such a long time.  So, yes, we (mostly the ladies who are more social) anxiously awaited the arrival of the rest of our team

They were traveling by convoy which can be dangerous.  Because we don't really have the most secure communications we don't talk on the phone and say "we will be at xyz at exactly 4 o'clock."  Due to many issues we did not even know if they would be coming today, tomorrow or the next.  Their trip was delayed several times then finally one afternoon we get word "they're on their way!" 

"Well, what time do you think they'll get here?"
"Could be 7 p.m., could be 8:30 p.m.  Not sure."
"DFAC closes at 8:00, if they don't get here soon they're not going to get any dinner."

So several of us sit around holding our phones (that only work when you are outside of a bldg or right next to a window) and we wait.  We might have to go to the chow hall and get a bunch of to go trays full of anything.  They will need someone to get them to their CHU.  We wait.  And we keep waiting.

Finally I heard third hand that the guys were at the billeting office, getting their CHU keys.  Since we are all sharing vehicles my friend and I hop in and race to the billeting office.  We pick up another on the way. 

When we pulled up several of them were standing around wearing their combat vests, carrying guns, all kinds of gear, hot, dirty and hungry...but I saw the grins they tried to hide behind tough-guy coolness - they missed us, too.

The Kirkooky's are all together again.

Moving Again

Kirkuk is on the border of the semi-autonomous region of Kurdistan, which is very pro American.  Safety is a concern ALL over Iraq, but not so much an issue in the Kurdish controlled areas.  However, Kirkuk is where the Kurds, Arabs and Turks all come together - and there is lots of petroleum reserves yet to be developed.  So while it is safer than Basra in the south, it is not without risks.  One such risk is IDF (indirect fire). 

Anyone wanting to harass and harm Americans can simply shoot his rocket up over the base and hope it lands somewhere to make great damage.  We have systems in place to detect "incoming" fire and sound the alarm.  You hear a mechanical voice screaming "incoming, incoming!"  Baaahnnkkk, baaahnnkkk, baaahnnkkk!"  Then you grab your protective vest and helmet, dive into the nearest bunker and hope you're not hit.  Kirkuk's system gives more warning than most other posts in Iraq...you get all of 20 seconds before impact.  LOL, I know it is nothing to laugh at, but most of the time the devices cause very little damage or don't even explode.  I, of course, have never been hit and have never lost friends due to such an attack.  But I am of the mind that you do have to be able to shrug it off or else you will constantly live in fear...and I simply cannot live that way.

Before I arrived the base was taking about 1-3 IDF per week, and for quite some time after I arrived it did not happen.  Once it happened at 2 in the afternoon on my day off and I was in my CHU napping with the air conditioning and TV on, and the generator running (constantly) just outside my door...I never even heard it.  I have met a guy who went to the gym early in the morning and came back to find that the IDF had landed in his bed...He's happy he likes to work out early in the day.

The base, our compound was maintained by the military, but they have since gone.  It is too large for us alone to manage and maintain so we need to find a new home.  For the time being our Consulate Kirkuk will physically be located in the city of Erbil, about 60 miles north.  Yep, we're moving - again!

Several of us were sent ahead by a few days to begin receiving and setting up offices.  We flew via helo from Kirkuk to Erbil.  The "new" compound is a construction zone, but it does not take any IDF.

Several of us said this was the most bored we have ever been...locked inside a small acreage with nothing but a DFAC, offices and CHUs.  The CHUs themselves are larger and nicer than we had before.

Honestly, we are anxiously awaiting the arrival of the rest of our group, who seem to be delayed daily by some glitch, some security issue...and our old compound and Kirkuk in general is experiencing a much higher rate of attacks.  We worry for their safety though most of them are the ones who protect us.  We will all breath easier when the move is completed.

Parking Ticket

On the compound where we live there are lots of vehicles but they all have stickers on the windows, placards on the dash and tags that mark them as legitimate.  But someone left a vehicle sitting in an unusual area for too long.  Security tried to find out who it belonged to, but to no avail.  Because of the concern over improvised and booby trapped explosive devices it is not wise to simply open and rummage through any "unknown" vehicle.

So when the owner of this vehicle could not be identified security did NOT write a parking ticket - they BLEW it UP!!!!

After it had been destroyed, paperwork was found that indicated it belonged to...base security!

Not Literature

…Writing on the blog doesn't always have to be literature, you know…

Well, I do like to fully “explore” any topic that I write on, but I’ve got so many great ones right now.  Those words spoken by a friend who enjoys my blog have spurred me to go ahead and post the following, a more comprehensive version of a quickie email sent to a colleague:

The work is steady, but not overwhelming.  Tons of time spent doing things like escorting visitors from the gate and back again.  The multitude of steps you must take and boxes you must check to clear each level (of security) is time consuming.  Patience is a good thing, and I have found my smile opens lots of doors and engenders cooperation (I’m sure it doesn’t hurt that I’m a girl!). 

Currently we are on a fairly large parcel of land with tons of unused space so you find things to do to entertain yourself.  One guy is going to show me something they call Stonehenge tomorrow.  Sounds intriguing.

I have been down to the marsh a few times to feed the Jackals.  (yep, sounds silly, I know, but you know me –adventure is everywhere)  There’s a little pack/pride?? with cubs? But only one of them is brave enough to come out and eat while we are there.  It is getting really hot so the water is drying up, though for now it is still a good sized little pond.  The 8 foot tall reeds around the water are beginning to dry out so the wind rustles them and it sounds very peaceful and quiet out there.  Local Iraqi men here are catching the fish and moving them to another body of water that is bigger so they will survive the heat.

There are several archaeological sites on our property; one is an old Turkmen cemetery, another is a mass grave (children who died before the age of six were not buried in a cemetery) discovered when we began a construction project.

For the 4^th of July we held a major event at the Kirkuk Government Building for our Iraqi contacts and guests.  We actually had our 4^th of July celebration in the Council’s Chamber!!!  It was pretty awesome to get out of the gates and see the city.  There is poverty, there is new construction…the look of the people, it all tells you something about this place.

Was kinda cool to be transported and protected by my own bodyguards.  I love my SPS guys-they are so serious! 

We have a little “camp” of CHUs lined up in a grid, but far enough apart that we park our cars in between.  CHUS are two to a bldg with a bathroom each.  Everything in our camp is powered by our own generator.  I was standing outside one night around 9 o’clock looking at the stars when suddenly it got VERY quiet.  The generator quit and EVERYTHING went dead.  I can’t help it I laughed and said, “who forgot to order the gas truck?”  Everyone came out of their CHUs and we waited around while the MGT officer went to find someone to fix it.  Seems it just needed restarting.

Our camp is just Dept of State people and we have one big trailer room full of sofas, TV, Kitchen, library and such – all left over by the massive military presence that has since departed country.  It is our communal space.  The only place to eat is the DFAC (dining facility) and it gets boring going there for 3 meals a day, but you can buy meats at the PX.  Since there is a large group of men, they love to grill so there are lots of evenings that we just eat meat, LOL.  Brats for appetizer, hamburgers for the next course and ribs or steak as a follow up!  In their defense fruits and veggies are very hard to come by on the compound and none of us get outside the gates except for work mtgs.  But we sit on picnic tables, the swing and sit under the midnight sky and chat.

But the adventure continues.  We are moving to “new” compound put together using older CHUs.  But since it is like “new” construction there’s not all the goodies left behind by others like rugs, picnic tables, chair, grilles (some of these were made by the troops including a grille with their logo!) and shade netting.  We are scavenging everything we can find to take with us.  Stayed tuned there’s lots more to come.